A lot of the Doctors had already been chosen but the Sixth Doctor hadn't been picked yet. Bryan had mentioned some interest in his costume previously so I had already started my research and I thought I had a good chance of finding the fabrics with LA being within easy driving distance. Plus, all that color! Sometimes, doing something a little crazy and outside of normal is a good thing.
Started - January 2012
First worn - CostumeCon 30, Tempe, AZ (2012)
Reference pics
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Concept drawing
Final costume pics
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Pulling it all together
March 24, 2012
After working on research since about Christmas, this project is finally starting! I knew this would be a difficult shopping trip because there were so many fabrics/trims to find. So I tried a new method. I got note cards and each one described the real fabric (this blog, http://sixthdoctorcostume.blogspot.com, ended up being a huge help in describing each of the fabrics), had a color chip or printout of what it should look like, and the yardage I wanted. There were 13 cards just for the jacket! As I found fabric, I added the swatch to the paperclip so I wouldn't have to drag the full piece with me as I went hunting for the rest.
So with all this prep work, the shopping trip was a complete success! I didn't find everything that I wanted but I found everything I needed. =)
First up was Michael Levine for a baseline. I like going there first because you don't barter there so the price isn't going to change. A lot of the other stores, they will quote you a price but if you leave and come back, it might be another price. So, I walk through the front doors and there is the perfect zigzag fabric for the vest. It's right there on boards with numbers. But it's perfect. But it's on boards with numbers. This probably means that it's rather expensive so I will keep it in mind as I continue shopping but I pretty much knew that I was coming back for that. Right past the doors is some wonderful green leather on sale for 50% off that would be perfect for my shoes. However, it all went downhill from there. I didn't find any of the key fabrics there and I wasn't going to commit to anything until I had found at least the red tartan.
So across the street to the The Loft. This is one of those places that sells fabric by the pound. $2.50/pound. As it happens, Bryan has the best luck at this place. I almost never find anything there but he does. He found the red tartan. It is red and black with a line of silver thread. A bit of bling for a femme Six sounds like a good compromise to me. Plus, it's $2.50/pound vs. the $17/yard I found online. Of course, it is some form of dinosaur rather than silk but I had already decided that dinosaur might be a better choice for this costume. He then found the red, peach, and green fabrics. I think I might have found the woven back piece but that was there too. All of this for $13. Win!
Another little store turned up a yellow for the lapel. I have a yellow in stash that might work but I felt it was just a bit much. This yellow is slightly softer but still fairly bright and it was $2. Even if I don't end up using it, I like having the choice and $2.
After that it was hunting for the checked collar and the yellow/black ticking for the skirt. Other fabrics were still needed but these were the difficult two...or so I thought. I found a good shirting that was white/black but I'm fairly certain it had at least some poly so dyeing might be tricky. More searching led to the trim stores where I picked up black ribbon and I found some green and orange velvet trim for the jacket. I was looking for a chunky braid but the velvets were the right color and it's a femme Six so why not?
Time to go to one of my favorite stores. They sell almost exclusively natural fabrics so I love this place. Turn the corner to go in and there it is! It's the checked collar! I don't even care how much it is because it will work. $2.50/yd. Win again! Found red silk gingham for my corset and 'shirt' trim. It wasn't quite a small of a check as I would have liked but the color was right and he took some off of the price so yay! Then I found some white with black stripe linen that would work for the skirt once I dyed it! I love this store.
The quest was still on for the pink lapel and the pink skirt piece. I had decided that the other fabrics just weren't necessary so I was ignoring them unless something jumped out at me. I had seen a few options for the pink skirt but two just weren't quite the right color and the third was a rather stiff silk. It seems silly to use silk when everything else is dinosaur but it was the perfect color. Not keen on the stiffness either or on how slubby it was. I figured I could come back to it in case I didn't find anything while hunting for the lapel. Thankfully, I did manage to find the perfect color pink in a poly dull satin. $4/yd! Still no luck with the lapel though. I was being stubborn and insisting it be velvet but everything was super shiny (sure, the jacket is dinosaur but I would prefer if it didn't scream that) or just the wrong pink. I finally found a wonderful cotton velvet. It's an off-white color so wrong color but it's dyeable. I wanted the bolt so I could dye it in various colors for Renaissance costumes. Of course, then I would need my own washer so I only got one yard for the lapels.
Since nothing else had jumped out at me for the vest, time to go back to Michael Levine and inquire about the boards with numbers. $60/yd but the minimum was only a quarter yard. I got a half yard. I had managed to get so much of the rest of this at such a great deal that I splurged on the vest fabric. I did decide to skip the leather for the shoes though. If the whole costume had been all out silk, linen, and cotton, then I would have gone for the leather. But I think another green will work just fine with what I ended up with. Plus, the shoes will rarely be seen if at all.
Overall, a very good day.
March 25, 2012
More shopping! There are two places that I wanted to hit that have impossible hours for me to get to normally and since I had already messed up my schedule yesterday, why not finish it all up this weekend?
First up, get copies of pics of hair that were similar to what I wanted for the wig people. That was easy.
Next, shoes. I wasn't expecting to find anything but there were three options. One had almost the right heel, it was low enough but the shape was slightly off, toe was too pointy but it was $9. The other two were almost the same, good toe but heel was too high - one was comfy but $20 and the other was not comfy but $12. After my recent problems with knees (that still aren't good), I went with the low and cheap pair. $9 for a pair of shoes that I'm going to destroy? Definitely a win.
Next was the wig place. I'm always a bit hesitant to go in there. They are really nice but they have a tendency to make big wigs and then it just feels fake. However, I really don't think I have the time to style it myself. I have virtually no experience styling my own hair much less a wig so I went with it. I think they know what I want and hopefully it looks good. Two weeks and I should know!
And last was more fabric shopping. I wanted to find a lining and wasn't finding anything at Jo-Ann's but then there it was. It's not perfect but it definitely has the right colors and overall feel. Of course, I had no idea how much I needed so I put it on hold and will go back tomorrow. I also found a green pleather for the shoes and picked that up. It wasn't the right color but it was $2.50 total so I bought it. I should have just waited since we then went to Yardage Town and found the perfect green and the perfect red-orange for the spats. But it was $2.50.
I also scoped out possibilities for the parasol. Just have to wait for it to arrive so I know how much to get.
Once all the shopping for the day was done, time to get to work on the shoes. The plan is to take a cheap pair of shoes and make them into boots. First up is the duct tape patterning with help from the dog. I think the pics show the process pretty well so I'll let them tell it.
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April 3, 2012
So nervous about dyeing this fabric! I've dyed fabric before but never when it actually mattered how it turned out. I've done several tests on samples of the fabric so I really hope this turns out.
April 15, 2012
I am working madly on the undies and of course they are taking longer than expected. So even though I can't work on the main parts of the outerwear, I can work on some of the accessories when I need a break from white accented with red. Like the watch chain.
The costume used in the series had a couple of different looks but since I am trying to follow The Mark of the Rani, I need a green metallic chain. I tried looking for a chain that was similar but quickly decided that with my vest being one with the jacket and very fitted, any chain I was finding was just too clunky. So, time to make my own. I've always wanted to do something with chain mail but didn't want to commit to a full shirt until I was sure it wouldn't drive me insane and just sit unfinished for years. Little chain seems perfect to try it out. I ordered some perfect green rings from Blue Buddha Boutique in different sizes and tried it out. And yes, I do want to make a full shirt or something now.
The yellow dye took to the big piece of fabric a lot better than it took to my samples. It's too brassy and not yellow enough so I thought I would try dye remover. I tried two samples, one was in for about five minutes and the other was about ten minutes. The one for five didn't lose much dye at all. Enough was removed to take off the brassy look and leave it a slightly softer yellow but it's still rather bright. The ten minute piece was much softer and pretty much exactly the color I wanted but the dye remover was also taking out the black stripe that I really wanted to keep. Plus, this piece dried to be rather brittle and scratchy.
I put the full piece of fabric in for no more than five minutes and sent it over to get washed. The washer filled up with water but didn't start agitating for some reason so when I went over a half hour later, it was just sitting there. I really hate not having my own washer/dryer. So, I think this is why the full piece of fabric is somewhat splotchy. Bryan says he doesn't see any difference in the color and I think he's blind. I'm going to iron it when I'm ready to get started on it in another week or so and hopefully it will work as is. If not, Bryan has already volunteered to run up to LA and get me a replacement piece so I can start over.
April 22, 2012
Back to the spats. I'm decided to line them in blue because it won't be seen, I had it on hand and nearby, and there really isn't enough blue in this costume. A ton of other colors but I think it is severely lacking in blue.
This costume as a whole is also using a lot of thread. The last buttonhole for the spats was just finished and I looked up and saw how close I was to running out. Guess that is as far as I'm getting on these until I can get to the fabric store and buy yet more thread. And because it is a corded fabric, I used Solvy for the buttonholes and I really like how nicely they turned out.
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And Koko...
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April 25, 2012
I managed to get more thread and the boots are almost a reality! Bottom edge bound and stitched to the green and then glued to the shoe and trimmed. I just have to finish off that bottom strap and they will be wearable. I still want to add green along the top but that will wait until everything is wearable and then I will go back and add the nice touches. And I'm not sure why the color is so crazy in these pics but I just couldn't get it to look quite right. It shows progress and I am a costumer, not a photographer.
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May 4, 2012
Koko will always find a place to sleep...
May 5, 2012
After getting my linen back from Koko, I ironed it and decided that it really wasn't visibly splotchy. Since I didn't want to have to go buy yet more linen and then try dyeing it again, I went with it. The skirt went together really quickly. It doesn't have the flounces that I had planned on but at this point, it's more important that I have a jacket than flounces so they will have to wait. Also, I have now taken over the living room as well since there just isn't room to work in my sewing area and have Anna set up with the skirt. Bustles take up a lot of room.
May 6, 2012
With the skirt done enough for now, time to turn to the jacket. I had taken the book to work and used the projector there to enlarge the pattern. The pattern wasn't exactly what I was looking for but I thought it was a good starting point.
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| The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930 by Norah Waugh |
But I also got a working muslin so I think I'm ready to move on to the real fabric. Later though...while it is a nice sunny morning, I stayed up all night and am really tired.
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May 7, 2012
Since there are so many different fabrics in this jacket, I did make a full mockup. This is so I could mark the mockup like crazy, rip it apart and then very carefully put the pieces on the right color of fabric. I'm nervous about messing this part up. I really want the colors to be in the right places and while I have enough fabric of a few colors to try again, some fabrics are running really tight, especially that tartan. So, double check, triple check, be crazy nervous, check again and then maybe I will have the courage to just cut.
May 9, 2012
Actually, it didn't take that long to convince me to cut it out. I'm running short on time and that makes me move a bit faster than I otherwise would. The green fabric is really lightweight in comparison to the others so I am flatlining it with the mockup fabric. That made cutting that out quite easy. The 'lapels' on the skirting needed a bit of tailoring so they would look similar to the rest of the jacket and hang nicer but other than that, it was pretty straightforward and quick to get the skirting together. The lining is also together and draped over a chair waiting for the next step.
The vest was interesting. I went to get started on it and realized that I had never prewashed the fabric. At $60/yd, I was a bit nervous about just dunking it in water. I did though and it's fine. The weave is a bit holey so I lined it with pink. I was debating what color to use but pink actually looked the best so I went with it. The buttonholes had to be done with Solvy as well because the weave was just too open. The pockets are actually functional. They are rather tiny but the TARDIS key and watch should fit so I'm happy.
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The jacket is mostly tailored and just have to put the last couple of seams in and I can try it on.
And lastly for today, I decided on the applique strip for the back. I had tried doing actual applique but it looked bad. It looked like it was just cobbled together and that wasn't going to work for me. So I pieced it together like a quilt and outlined each square of color with gold metallic thread. It has the same look but maybe a bit more refined as would be appropriate for a Victorian lady.
May 10, 2012
Tried on the jacket today and it will work! I also basted in sleeves and while they're not right and need a lot of work, I just don't have the time to mess with it. I hope that I can get back to them and make it work at some point.
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The skirting is lined and ready to be stitched on and I got started on the peplum. It's quite a funny little thing that took forever to figure out but I think it will work.
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May 20, 2012
Well I fell off with the updates there and didn't even bother taking pics. Too much to do in too little time with too little sleep leads to me be very happy I had a costume at all. I left for Arizona and the jacket was in pieces. The skirting wasn't attached, the sleeves weren't even cut out and the skirt wasn't hemmed.
Obviously it all got done enough to enter in the masquerade and I was even done sewing several hours before. But it is all pretty much a sleep deprived blur and I don't remember a lot of it. I do remember being oddly insistent that I find red bling to put on the bow on the back of the jacket.
That all done and surprisingly enough, I won a workmanship award. Oh, if they only knew...
August 10, 2012
Back to working on this in hopes of getting it done before Dragon*Con because I never learn.
First up is deciding what actually needs to be done. I was convinced that I did want tails on the bow in the back of my 6th Doctor jacket. Now that I've dug it out again, I think I'm not so sure.
Yes, it needs a good pressing/steaming but that can wait since it will just be crammed into a suitcase again.
At CostumeCon, I was convinced not to add them but while pondering all that needed to be done in prep for D*Con, I wasn't sure if I didn't add them because of time or aesthetics. I think maybe it would detract from the cursed pleating I have going on back there and while I call it cursed pleating, it's more because of how much effort it took to get it looking right rather than it looks like a mess and needs tails to cover it. I think I will ponder as I work on the applique. All the red and green have been cut out (it took me all week but at least I got something done this week) and just need to cut the black. Then it's piecing it all together, gold topstitching, and sewing it to the jacket. Then the jacket just needs a permanent bustle solution and it's done! Unless it really does need tails.
Shoes still need work but that shouldn't take too long.
Then it's the skirt. I have some ideas for this but it will take quite a bit of fussing. I'm hoping to change the costume slightly so I can shorten the skirt and maybe not wear the bustle and petticoat. The skirt really is too long for D*Con and ComicCon so it would be nice to have the option of shortening it rather than having to make another skirt. However, I think I might have to come up with another bustle option since I'm not sure the jacket will look right without it.
I also need to make the shirt and cuffs.
And finally, the parasol. I'm not sure how to take it on the plane so I might not get to it before D*Con. But I really like the idea of having the parasol so maybe I'll find a way.
And I just had to share this. It was kinda cute when it was just the white skirt and USO girl but with the third costume piece thrown on, it just looks silly. Of course, a lot of that could just be the crazy silliness of the jacket all by itself. I really will learn how to finish one project before moving onto the next someday. Not today, obviously, but someday.
August 11, 2012
Just need the gold stitching and the applique strip will be ready!
August 19, 2012
Once again, I am reminded why it really is best to finish the project before moving on. Sure I had a plan but I either don't remember it or don't like it anymore. So time for a new plan! However, fabric needs don't always match up with fabric on hand. And since it's an old project, finding more of the same is near impossible. Doubly impossible since I dyed the fabric. Thankfully, my new plan is a bit flexible and I think I can squeeze it in. But the ruffles are going to eat up almost all of the yellow/black striped linen that I have left. Time to test pleat the linen to make sure the ruffles will look right before I start cutting it all up just to find out that it doesn't look good pleated as planned.
I think I have the jacket bustling figured out. I didn't much care for it at CostumeCon but I thought that was just because I didn't have my dress form to figure out where to bustle it and I just pinned it up rather quickly without taking much time cuz I didn't have much time. Turns out, bustling is a lot harder than it looks...at least for me. I think I have eight or ten attachment points rather than the three the diagram I roughly based the jacket on calls for. But I think I like it.
August 23, 2012
I'm still working on the pleats for this skirt!! I'm pretty sure it will look good until the skirt needs washing and then all the pleats will no longer be nicely pleated and I'll have to iron them again. I'm also worried that the ironing won't hold up to travel so I'll have to iron them again at D*Con. I really didn't plan that one out very well. On the plus side, the skirt has a proper faced hem now rather than the rather horrible rolled hem that it had for CostumeCon. Ran out of time so I was lucky to have even the rolled hem. The bottom flounce of pleats have been basted into pleats and I'm re-ironing them and then I can finally attach them to the skirt!! And then it's onto the second flounce. And then bustling the skirt and petticoat. This has taken so much longer than I thought it would, as is typical.
August 24, 2012
Lower flounce is attached!!! And I don't hate it!! I still have to stitch around it one more time and then tear out the basting but it is attached and my pin container actually has pins again. =) I think a cookie break is needed and then I will get back to the flounces. The bustle is drooping a bit in this picture because Anna isn't wearing my corset to help hold up the bustle. The flounce is surprisingly heavy. It shouldn't be surprising because it is a lot of fabric but I'm still surprised at how heavy it is.
August 25, 2012
Trying to decide which flounce to go with. I had imagined it curving but I think the straight is a better use of the fabric and would be easier to stitch down.
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August 28, 2012
I finished Six!! Not really but finished enough for Dragon*Con. All that is left is parasol, shoes, collar and cuffs. I would still like to get the parasol functional for D*Con but that isn't necessary and would make traveling easier without it but I want it! And it's so close! But last minute shopping, cleaning and dinner comes first. And packing should come first too...
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